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    <title>9a395364a978951a</title>
    <link>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com</link>
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      <title>The Best Way to Refinish Hardwood Floors Like A Pro</title>
      <link>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/the-best-way-to-refinish-hardwood-floors-like-a-pro</link>
      <description>Step 1: Prepare your floors to sand! Take away all carpet tacks, nails, or any other object off the floor. We also suggest removing all baseboards - this step isn't required; however, it will make the job much simpler. We'll be installing new moldings throughout the house.</description>
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           The Best Way to Refinish Hardwood Floors Like A Pro
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           Step 1:
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            Prepare your floors to sand! Take away all carpet tacks, nails, or any other object off the floor. We also suggest removing all baseboards - this step isn't required; however, it will make the job much simpler. We'll be installing new moldings throughout the house. It was sensible to dispose of the baseboards that were in place prior to the flooring project.
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           Step 2:
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            By using the belt sander and 60 grit of sandpaper, begin sanding your floor. Make sure you sand in the grain. The next step is to get your edge sander. With 60-grit sandpaper, work along the edges and perimeters, and sand the corners of the room thoroughly. Repeat the process using the belt sander as well as edge sanders with 80-grit sandpaper. Followed by 120-grit sandpaper.
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            Step 3:
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           Make use of the shop vac to remove dust and other debris off the floor. Clean it afterward.
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            Step 4:
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           This step is crucial in how staining is done. It's known as water popping. It's the act of wetting the wood so that it raises the grain, opening up the pores, which allows for the wood's surface to take in more stain. This will result in an appealing, even, and saturated color. To achieve this, you need to soak the rags in water, squeeze them out, then clean the floor with uniformity.
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           Step 5:
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            Now is the time to begin staining! Utilizing the Minwax oil-based stain, dip an applicator pad in the stain and apply it on the floor by the grain. Begin in the corner of each room, and move towards the door. When a section is completed, it's vital to clean and soak up any stain that remains with a clean and dry application pad! Clean the floor five planks at one time. Beware of the roller applicator in home improvement stores. We have tried it on one area, and it didn't work well. It is possible to manage the staining process quicker when you apply it with your hands! It's more neat, even, and requires much less time for drying.
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            Step 6:
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           Let the one layer of staining set over at a minimum of 24 to 48 hours (this may vary depending on temperature or humidity in your area).
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           Step 7:
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            Apply the initial coat of Poly using a smooth foam roller. It should be a thin coat! Let it dry for two hours.
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           Step 8:
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            Buff the floors using a 220-grit screen. Following buffing, wash and clean the floor thoroughly. It's now time to put on the 2nd coat! Repeat this process until you have applied three or four coats of poly. You can apply three coats across the entire area, with the exception of high-traffic zones, where you can apply four coats. That's it! Once you've applied the polyurethane, your floors are finished.
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           To get the most out of your floors and all the effort you've put into them, we recommend only moderate usage (walking in socks) within 24 hours. After two weeks, you'll be able to relocate your furniture to the flooring; however, avoid using rugs or other textiles for at minimum 7 to 10 days.
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      <pubDate>Fri, 03 Feb 2023 15:00:04 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/the-best-way-to-refinish-hardwood-floors-like-a-pro</guid>
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      <title>Strategies to Keep Your Old House In Good Condition</title>
      <link>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/strategies-to-keep-your-old-house-in-good-condition</link>
      <description>There's no doubt about the beauty of an old house. Architectural features from the past, like arches, pilasters with decorative designs, steeply pitched roofs, and stained-glass windows, create an ambiance and style unmatched by modern houses built today. Hand-carved beauty isn't just the one property these homes provide.</description>
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           Strategies to Keep Your Old House In Good Condition
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           There's no doubt about the beauty of an old house. Architectural features from the past, like arches, pilasters with decorative designs, steeply pitched roofs, and stained-glass windows, create an ambiance and style unmatched by modern houses built today. Hand-carved beauty isn't just the one property these homes provide. They were constructed with a dedication to the highest quality. However, as time passes, there will be various home maintenance tasks that must be completed regularly to protect the beauty and security of these old buildings.
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           You're probably contemplating that you just want to sell your fast or are trying to climb the ladder of property with huge profits from selling your home, then giving your house some TLC is necessary. Maybe you'd like to make your home more modern with a kitchen remodel or to increase its appearance; check this out for some suggestions to make your home appear like it's a few years younger.
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           Keep Up Your Appearances
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           The first thing people see is the house's exterior. Therefore, ensure that your home is warm and inviting. An obvious indication that your home is in need of a remodel or a complete overhaul is when the paint used on the exterior or the interior begins to appear old and worn or when it begins to crack. The worn-out look of paint indicates that weather conditions and other external elements, such as chemicals and dirt, could have a negative impact on your home. Pressure washing keeps your walls clear and eliminates ugly stains such as mildew and bird droppings. A new coat of paint can make a huge difference to your home's appearance while also safeguarding it from the effects of UV rays and moisture. A roof replacement could bring about an enormous difference in the appearance of your home.
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           Don't Put Off Roof Repairs
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           Don't trust the report from the seller's inspection; instead, engage an independent expert who will provide the roof diagram as well as other details that will help you evaluate the condition of the home. In the event that your roofing has sustained some damage, you might be feeling the full impact when winter closes in. Instead of putting off leaks and other issues, it's crucial to act quickly. A quick roof repair service is an excellent way to address problems swiftly, prior to the time you have to get the entire roof replaced! Make sure to examine your roof to ensure that you can spot any needed repairs prior to the need for repairs which could save you lots of time and money. Contact any of the reputable roofing companies in your area to examine the quality of your roof if you spot an unbalanced tile, hail damage, or a broken slate.
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           Kitchen Changes
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           Your house has likely seen plenty of changes over the years. It's possible that your kitchen needs to be modernized. If it's crowded or outdated, you may want to alter the practical space as well as the arrangement. If a massive remodeling project is out of the question, begin by replacing the worn-out appliances, as well as fresh paint in the kitchen, and then upgrade the flooring. If your floors are in poor condition, there are numerous gorgeous flooring options like tile floors or hardwood laminate to pick from that can give your old home a fresh appearance without sacrificing character.
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           If you have hardwood floors, you can take off the previous finish and then apply a new coating of sealant to your flooring, which will appear as if it was laid only recently. If you're seeking inspiration to design your floors or other updates to your home, check out various homes on display to find out what styles appeal to potential buyers or what you'd prefer to live with on every day basis.
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           The heart is in the home, and it's where the heart is; therefore, make sure you put your energy into maintaining your home. These suggestions will allow you to take advantage of your old home for many years.
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      <pubDate>Fri, 27 Jan 2023 14:24:24 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/strategies-to-keep-your-old-house-in-good-condition</guid>
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      <title>Screen and Re-coat: Will it work for me?</title>
      <link>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/screen-and-re-coat-will-it-work-for-me</link>
      <description>Screen and coat: Some talk over this procedure as a "light sanding." There isn't any such component as light sanding. A flooring professional can sand the floor (sanding off the pinnacle layer of actual hardwood and attending to a sparkling new layer of timber) or buff it with a buffer machine that has been equipped with a display screen that is a light abrading of the pinnacle layer of polyurethane and does not touch the real timber at all.</description>
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           Screen and Re-coat: Will it work for me?
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           Screen and coat: Some talk over this procedure as a "light sanding." There isn't any such component as light sanding. A flooring professional can sand the floor (sanding off the pinnacle layer of actual hardwood and attending to a sparkling new layer of timber) or buff it with a buffer machine that has been equipped with a display screen that is a light abrading of the pinnacle layer of polyurethane and does not touch the real timber at all.
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           Screens also are used beneath thick, soft pads that similarly soften the reduced movement of the screen. This is long-lasting due to the fact ground screening should only go away sufficient texture in the floor to permit a new coat of polyurethane to bond; screening needs to dispose of only a tiny fraction of the existing finish.
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           Many humans are hopeful that they are able to get away with a buff and coat in preference to sanding. How will you know which method is right for you? Things to take into account are the following:
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           Scratches:
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            Surface scratches within the top layer of polyurethane may best be removed with the aid of a display screen and coat, while scratches that might be in the wood will no longer be eliminated. If the scratch(es), in all likelihood, appear to be clear, you can take care of them with a buff and coat. If the scratches are only light, white in color, or lighter than the encircling wood (darkish or black scratches are vintage ones – they are within the timber and have packed with dust/dust!), they will need sanding to be removed.
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           Bare wooden:
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            If the hardwood ground looks greyish colored, the ground will need to be sanded. The polyurethane has been worn absolutely away, and the timber has become discolored.
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           Cleaning products:
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            Hardwood flooring that has been cleaned with the scary Murphy's Oil Soap, Orange Glo, Mop and Glo, or other wax cleaners can not be re-coated. These cleaners have waxy, soapy residues which are impossible to get off the floor without sanding it, or even that makes for a prolonged and difficult ground sanding job!
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           The buff and coat process must absolutely be a part of a normal hardwood maintenance application. A buff and coat every three years or so can significantly make a big difference in the existence of your hardwood ground, as it will refresh the top layer of polyurethane. Polyurethane is a sacrificial layer on the pinnacle of the wood, and it features to guard the wood under it. That layer of polyurethane gets thinner and scratched every year—as it normally will—due to the fact its activity is to keep damage go away from the timber beneath. If you allow that protective coat to deteriorate for too long, it's going to subsequently divulge bare wood attacks from shoes, pet nails, liquid spills, and dirt/grit, inflicting harm that can only be repaired via sanding the floor completely.
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      <pubDate>Sat, 31 Dec 2022 13:45:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/screen-and-re-coat-will-it-work-for-me</guid>
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      <title>Which Is Better: Red Oak versus White Oak Hardwood Flooring?</title>
      <link>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/which-is-better-red-oak-versus-white-oak-hardwood-flooring</link>
      <description>Oak is the most famous preference for hardwood floors. Oak is a very realistic choice for hardwood flooring as it's completely a long-lasting wood that can last well for over one hundred years. In addition to being conveniently available – it's grown and milled within the USA and especially within the Northeast vicinity of the USA.</description>
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           Which Is Better: Red Oak versus White Oak Hardwood Flooring?
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           Oak is the most famous preference for hardwood floors. Oak is a very realistic choice for hardwood flooring as it's completely a long-lasting wood that can last well for over one hundred years. In addition to being conveniently available – it's grown and milled within the USA and especially within the Northeast vicinity of the USA.
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           It could be very cheap compared to different species of wood which are used for hardwood flooring, and quite versatile as it is able to be stained with almost any coloration of the rainbow. So what is the distinction between Red Oak and White Oak, and what is better?
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            COLOR:
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           In contrast to what the name suggests, White Oak is a darker wood than Red Oak.
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           The color of White Oak is a combination of browns and tans ranging from darkish brown to beige, while Red Oak is a lighter wood that levels from almost white to a gentle amber color. Red Oak has pinkish tones and pink colorations. Either can be stained by any color, and the seen variations between Red or White Oak diminish as you cross darker with the stain colour.
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           Lighter tints and white washes on Red Oak could have a reddish or pinkish undertone to the color. Because White Oak is a darker timber, the equal coloration stain carried out to both Red and White Oak flooring may be darker on the White Oak floor than it's far at the Red Oak ground.
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           HARDNESS:
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            White Oak is a little bit tougher than Red Oak. On the hardness scale, White Oak flooring scores 1360 and Red Oak floors 1290. White Oak is also very dense, making it more appropriate for out of doors furnishings and boat building. Some declare that the density of White Oak makes it a more strong species (much less seasonal movement) than Red Oak; however, both kinds of hardwood floors could have a few seasonal movements. Both Red and White Oak flooring is remarkable alternatives for lengthy-time period durability for maximum houses.
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            GRAIN PATTERN:
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           Red Oak grain designs tend to be extra specific or" wild" than the finer, less pronounced grain pattern is commonplace to White Oak. The grain of a White Oak runs straighter and tighter than in Red Oak, with fewer swirls, circles or deviations. Red oak also has wider grain lines which could run in zigzag styles or diffused, wavy traces that are absent from White Oak. Another purpose that Red Oak floors present a greater distinguished grain pattern than White Oak is due to the fact it's far a lighter wood than White Oak. And however, the smoother look of White Oak can also be attributed to the truth that the darkish grain is less great against the darker timber.
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           MATCHING EXISTING ACCESSORIES:
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            Red Oak is a ways greater regularly utilized in stair treads, Newel posts, handrails and bannisters. If you have got Oak stair treads already in your home that you need to be in shape, possibilities are true that they're Red Oak. If you are adding new treads or railings in your house, White Oak may be slightly extra high priced since it's miles less typically used, but not significantly so.
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      <pubDate>Sat, 24 Dec 2022 12:46:30 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/which-is-better-red-oak-versus-white-oak-hardwood-flooring</guid>
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      <title>How To Refinish Hardwood Floors Like A Pro?</title>
      <link>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/how-to-refinish-hardwood-floors-like-a-pro</link>
      <description>Step 1: Prepare your floors for sanding! Get rid of all carpet tacks, nails, or any other object off the floor. We also suggest removing the baseboards completely. This step isn't required; however, it can make the task much easier.</description>
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           How To Refinish Hardwood Floors Like A Pro?
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           Step 1:
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            Prepare your floors for sanding! Get rid of all carpet tacks, nails, or any other object off the floor. We also suggest removing the baseboards completely. This step isn't required; however, it can make the task much easier. If you are installing new molding throughout the house, it is sensible to dispose of the baseboards you have before starting the flooring project.
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            Step 2:
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           By using the belt sander and 60-grit sandpaper, start sanding the floor. Make sure you sand in the grain. Then you'll need time to get your edge sander. With 60-grit paper, go around the edges, perimeters, and corners of every room to the required degree. Repeat the process using the belt sander as well as edge sanders made of 80-grit sandpaper, followed by 120-grit sandpaper.
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           Step 3:
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            Make use of the vacuum to remove dust and other debris off the floor. Then wipe it clean.
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           Step 4:
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            This is vital to this process of staining. It's referred to as water popping. It's the process of soaking the wood in order to raise the grain and open pores on the surface which allows for the wood's surface to take in more stain. This will result in an attractive, even, and saturated color. To achieve this, take the scrap rags, soak them in water, squeeze them out, and then clean the floor in a consistent manner.
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            Step 5:
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           It's time to begin staining! With the Minwax oil-based stain, apply an applicator pad to the stain, and then place it on the flooring using the grain. You may begin in the corner of each room before working toward the door. When a section is finished, it's vital to wash and remove all stain residue using a clean pad!
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           Clean the floor with five planks at one time. Don't fall for the roller applicator found at the home improvement store. We tried using it in one area and it was not a success. It is possible to manage the staining process more easily if you do it by hand! It's neater, and even and requires much less time for drying.
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           Step 6:
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            Let the one layer of staining set for a minimum of 24 to 48 hours (this may vary depending on the humidity or temperature of the area you are in).
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            Step 7:
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           Apply your first layer of Poly using a smooth foam roller. This should be a light coat! Let it dry for a minimum of 2 hours.
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            Step 8:
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           Polish the floors using two 20-grit screen. Following buffing, wash and clean the floor thoroughly. It's time for the next coat! Repeat this process until have applied 3 or 4 coats of poly. It will be three coats all over, with the exception of those areas that are very busy where you can apply four coats. That's it! Following the installation of polyurethane your floors are finished.
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           To get the most out of your floors and the effort you've put into them, we'd suggest only light use (walking in socks) within 24 hours. After the next 48 hours, you are able to put your furniture back on the flooring; however, avoid the addition of rugs or fabrics for a minimum of 7 to 10 days.
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      <pubDate>Fri, 02 Dec 2022 15:45:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/how-to-refinish-hardwood-floors-like-a-pro</guid>
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      <title>How To Whitewash Wooden Floors?</title>
      <link>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/how-to-whitewash-wooden-floors</link>
      <description>A look that is often associated with Scandinavian fashion, the use of whitewashing provides a modern appearance, while also accentuating the beautiful natural characteristics of the wood grain.</description>
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           How To Whitewash Wooden Floors?
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           A look that is often associated with Scandinavian fashion, the use of whitewashing provides a modern appearance, while also accentuating the beautiful natural characteristics of the wood grain. The most appealing aspect of it is that unlike painting your floor, which will reveal wear and tear over time, whitewashing requires more low maintenance.
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           While it is traditionally done using lime or bleach for wood, which can be very harsh (please avoid that!), tinted oils for wood are an easier alternative, providing nourishment and protection to the wood in the same way. These waxes and oils are eco-friendly, meaning that there are fewer chemicals that cause harm and the wood will be able to breathe. In high-traffic areas, it is able to withstand wear and tear, is waterproof, and is easy to wash. It is also great for wood flooring. A little is a lot.
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           Before You Start - Prepare The Floor.
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           It is important to prepare the floor prior to staining it. This involves taking off any previous treatments with the use of a powerful sander, replacing broken or damaged boards, and filling any gaps. 
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           The next step is to clean the floor. Vacuum out any dust or debris first. You don't want to work on the flooring. Clean and dry the floor a few times until the dirt or marks have been removed.
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           Step One - Applying The Wood Wax Finish
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           Wear protective gloves and pour a bit of the Wood Wax Finish into a pot to make it easier to access. Use the wax finish in a thin layer along with the grain of the wood using your cloth or brush, and work it into cracks or knots. Be aware that a small amount goes far. Take 20 minutes to soak in time before using a clean, lint-free piece of fabric to rub off the excess wax until you're pleased with the appearance.
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           It is recommended to lay the floor in sections, so you can have a secure place to sit down during this process, or else you'll fall on the floor while it's still wet. This might mean you leave an open space to get out while waiting for the remaining part of your floor to dry before you begin the rest.
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           TOP TIP: Because certain floor waxes turn yellow over time, we recommend applying a white tint as a final coat on top of the wax finish.
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           Step Two - Apply The Polyx Oil Tint Top Coat
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           After the floor is dry, make sure you're satisfied with the color. If you feel that it needs to be a bit lighter you can repeat the step. After that, put on the polyx oil tint that will help protect your base coat from damage and keep it from turning yellow over time. Decant a small amount of the tint to a pot and apply the same method as you did in the first step using either using a soft brush or a clean, lint-free cloth.
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           This is the point where you are able to either cover the entire floor and work your way back to the door (don't make yourself look like a fool!) and allow it to completely dry, or do it again in sections and remove the excess. The Polyx-Oil Tint has a translucent white, which adds only a tiny amount to the final color, with the appearance of a slight sheen. We didn't want to get rid of any excess because we were satisfied with the final result and left it to be dry following the application of a light coat.
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      <pubDate>Fri, 25 Nov 2022 15:17:56 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/how-to-whitewash-wooden-floors</guid>
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      <title>Different Grades Of Hardwood Flooring</title>
      <link>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/different-grades-of-hardwood-flooring</link>
      <description>Many individuals are unaware that there are numerous grades of hardwood flooring! Each grade has its own distinct appearance and qualities. They can be "Prevalent" and "Common," which are frequently referred to as "Rustic" and "Builder's" grades, respectively.</description>
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           Different Grades Of Hardwood Flooring
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           Many individuals are unaware that there are numerous grades of hardwood flooring! Each grade has its own distinct appearance and qualities. They can be "Prevalent" and "Common," which are frequently referred to as "Rustic" and "Builder's" grades, respectively. There are the three most common grades used for Oak hardwood flooring.
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           The grading scale is a measurement of what is known as "Character" markings or natural characteristics, such as variation in color from board to board, mineral streaks, and the presence of knots or worm holes; however, it also takes into account the average board length, milling imperfections, and other irregularities. None of these three grades is superior or more durable than the others; the distinctions are entirely based on appearance.
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           Some individuals favor the homogeneity of Select grades, while others favor a more rustic appearance with more character on the floor. A tree with fewer character markers will cost more because there will be less useful wood. Select grade is the most expensive of the three, followed by Rustic grade, which is significantly less expensive than Select. The SELECT grade contains extremely few flaws or distinguishing characteristics. Select grade will have a nearly uniform hue, extremely few knots and holes, and longer, uniformly sized boards. Every 3 feet, only tight, little knots are allowed.
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           The first type of "Common" features a greater range in light and dark hues, knots, holes, and board length.
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           The second type of "Common" or "Rustic" grade has a very rustic appearance, with substantial variations in color from board to board, noticeable mineral streaks, prominent knots and worm holes of bigger sizes, and an abundance of shorter boards.
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           The third type of "Common," also known as "Tavern" or "Utility" grade, is, in our opinion, not worth purchasing for wood flooring since, despite costing substantially less per square foot, so much of it will be worthless to offset the savings.
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           Frequently, the third type, or Utility grade, has black machine burns, shattered ends, massively broken knots, fragmented pieces, a significant proportion of boards 1' or shorter, etc. We propose the second type, or Rustic grade, for people who desire a floor with personality.
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           When you intend to stain the floor, especially with a darker stain, the color contrasts between boards become less apparent. With a dark stain, the distinctions between the first type of Common and the second type of Common will be practically indiscernible, and you can save greatly when it comes to money by opting for a more rustic wood grade!
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           With a natural floor, the distinctions between Oak grades are more apparent. With a heavy stain, visibility is greatly reduced. A professional in hardwood flooring can help you reach your design objectives in the most cost-effective manner — call us!
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      <pubDate>Sat, 05 Nov 2022 14:00:01 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/different-grades-of-hardwood-flooring</guid>
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      <title>Who Needs Engineered Hardwood Flooring?</title>
      <link>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/who-needs-engineered-hardwood-flooring</link>
      <description>When is Engineered hardwood flooring necessary? In light of the numerous compliments we've received, we're recommitting ourselves to guiding and helping. On to the subject at hand!</description>
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           Who Needs Engineered Hardwood Flooring?
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           When is Engineered hardwood flooring necessary? In light of the numerous compliments we've received, we're recommitting ourselves to guiding and helping. On to the subject at hand! Engineered flooring is genuine hardwood as opposed to laminate flooring, which resembles wood but is artificial.
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           Engineered flooring consists of several core layers of plywood, high-density fiberboard, or another form of hardwood that are bonded together, and a thin layer, or veneer, of a specific hardwood flooring species that is put on top of those core layers. This makes the floor more stable. What does this entail? Are wooden floors unstable? Hardwood flooring is an excellent option for long-term satisfaction, but it is an organic material that responds to its environment.
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           The primary environmental factors that cause the hardwood to shift are moisture, humidity levels, and heat. Yes, wood flooring shifts over its lifetimes! Extreme humidity can cause boards to swell, while extreme dryness or cold can cause them to shrink, resulting in seasonal gapping. Moreover, under really severe conditions, solid wood floors might warp, cup (the edges of the boards tilt upward), swell, and separate.
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           Engineered hardwood flooring is a multi-ply plank of several different layers glued together, as opposed to a solid piece of wood that moves as a single unit. Therefore, it resists twisting and cupping and remains flat and unbroken.
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           Like solid hardwood, engineered flooring is available in both unfinished and prefinished forms. There are more options for prefinished Engineered flooring than there are individuals to buy them. We continue to believe that no prefinished product can ever match the elegance of a professionally site-finished wood floor! If you choose Engineered, purchase unfinished Engineered and have it sanded and finished to your exact specifications!
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           As with solid hardwoods, engineered wood flooring is also available in a variety of species and grades. Engineered wood flooring offers the same variety of possibilities as solid hardwood flooring.
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           When should Engineered flooring be used? Isn't solid hardwood better? The answer to this is both Engineered and Solid flooring have advantages, but there are specific instances when Engineered flooring can be used and Solid flooring cannot:
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           1. Engineered flooring can be placed directly on the concrete because of its more stable composition. It does not need a subfloor made of plywood as solid hardwood flooring does. If you have a concrete subfloor, it is frequently less expensive to install engineered flooring because you do not need to buy plywood and/or pay for the installation labor.
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           In addition, clearance concerns are rarely encountered when putting engineered wood flooring directly onto a concrete slab. Frequently, when placing a 3/4" plywood subfloor and a 3/4" hardwood floor over a previously carpeted slab, doors must be cut, and baseboard heating pipes must be lifted to suit the 1.5" height rise of the new flooring.
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           2. Engineered flooring is an excellent option for below-grade applications, such as basements, which are frequently subject to significant humidity and moisture fluctuations. We do not suggest the installation of solid hardwood below grade.
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           3. People adore the trend toward wider planks, but because of their increased surface area, wider planks are more subject to extreme seasonal gapping. Gaps drive some folks insane! Engineered flooring is less susceptible to seasonal gapping since it has a plywood core with multiple layers and a thin veneer of hardwood.
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      <pubDate>Sat, 29 Oct 2022 13:36:25 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/who-needs-engineered-hardwood-flooring</guid>
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      <title>Engineered Hardwood Flooring: Who Needs It?</title>
      <link>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/engineered-hardwood-flooring-who-needs-it</link>
      <description>What exactly is Engineered Hardwood flooring? And when should you use it? For starters, Engineered flooring is genuine wood, not laminated, which looks and feels like wood; however, it is fake.</description>
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           Engineered Hardwood Flooring: Who Needs It?
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           What exactly is Engineered Hardwood flooring? And when should you use it? For starters, Engineered flooring is genuine wood, not laminated, which looks and feels like wood; however, it is fake.
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           Engineered flooring is composed of several layers of wood, high-density fiberboard, or another type of hardwood, bonded together and a thin layer, also known as a veneer, a specific hardwood flooring species, glued to the top layer. This makes for a more durable flooring. What exactly does this mean? Are hardwood floors unstable? In general, hardwood flooring is an excellent choice for long-term enjoyment, but it's organic and responds to the environment it is in.
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           Most importantly, the elements of the conditions that cause the hardwood to move include humidity, moisture levels, and temperatures. Wood floors can change throughout their lives! If humidity is in the air, the boards will expand when they are cold or dry. In very dry conditions, they can shrink, leading to what's known as gaps that occur during the season. In extremely harsh conditions, flooring made of solid wood can crack, warp, or cup (edges of boards move upwards) and swell or split. Engineered hardwood flooring is a multi-ply piece composed of multiple layers that are joined to a single piece of wood which moves in a single piece and resists cupping and twisting, and stays solid and flat.
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           When is the best time to use Engineered flooring? Isn't solid hardwood better? The answer to the question is there are benefits for both; however, there are certain situations in which Engineered flooring may be employed, whereas a solid is not.
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           1.) Due to its stronger design, Engineered flooring is able to be laid directly on concrete. It does not require an underfloor made of plywood, as traditional hardwood floors do. If you have a concrete slab, it will generally be less costly to install flooring made of engineered wood since it doesn't require the purchase of plywood and/or pay for the labor required to install it. There are also no clearance issues to be faced in the installation of Engineered wooden flooring on the concrete slab. In most cases, putting in the 1/4" plywood subfloor and 3/8" hardwood floor on an old slab with carpeting will require that doors be cut and baseboard heating pipes be raised to allow for the 1.5" rise of the flooring.
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           2.) The flooring made of engineered flooring is a fantastic option for lower-grade areas for basements, which may be more susceptible to variations in humidity and levels. We don't recommend that you install solid hardwood in below-grade areas.
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           3.) The trend is adored by people who are towards larger planks. However, larger planks are more prone to massive gaps in the seasons because of their greater surface area. Gaps can make people insane! Since Engineered flooring is made up of an underlying plywood layer that is multi-layered, only a tiny veneer of hardwood is, therefore, less susceptible to gapping that occurs during the season.
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           4.) Due to its more durable design, Engineered flooring is able to be installed on radiant heating. The only solid hardwood that is suitable for installation on radiant heating will be Rift and Quartered flooring, which is a particular type of hardwood flooring. With extremely wide planks that are radiant heat, it is recommended to make use of Engineered flooring.
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      <pubDate>Mon, 10 Oct 2022 10:30:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/engineered-hardwood-flooring-who-needs-it</guid>
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      <title>To Gray Or Not To Gray? Gray Hardwood Floors: A Trend Or A Tradition?</title>
      <link>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/to-gray-or-not-to-gray-gray-hardwood-floors-a-trend-or-a-tradition</link>
      <description>The gray hardwood flooring is pretty cool, right? Many love them. Let's put it out there. Are they just an occasional trend in fashion, or are they a trend that will last to stay for the long haul?</description>
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           To Gray Or Not To Gray? Gray Hardwood Floors: A Trend Or A Tradition?
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           The gray hardwood flooring is pretty cool, right? Many love them. Let's put it out there. Are they just an occasional trend in fashion, or are they a trend that will last to stay for the long haul?
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           Keep in mind the fact that gray is a neutral color such as brown or tan; it can be used with any color. There are many shades of gray along with gray and brown mixed flooring frequently and in all kinds of houses. The lighter and more gray you select, the more your hardwood flooring will have a more modern, contemporary look. If your furniture and home are more traditional, but you're looking to modernize your home slightly, we'd recommend a more brown/grey or medium brown stain that has some gray undertone.
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           Add a weathered oak with any dark brown or brown stain gives the floor more depth and a transitional look as it adds a subtle gray undertone to any stain. If you love gray, but you're not ready to go all gray, consider mixing any stain color using Weathered Oak! It instantly brings floors into the contemporary era.
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           Grey floors are simpler to maintain than hardwood floors with dark brown hues since they don't show dust. The lighter gray flooring can make a space feel spacious and airy, whereas darker gray stains may visually diminish the room. Dark gray floors can provide a striking contrast with lighter-colored walls, and the dark gray floors make a great backdrop for furniture with bright colors and accessories, like teal or red. Honey and gold tones make a perfect match with hardwood floors that are dark gray.
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           Mix light gray floors and lighter neutral furniture and accents to create the perfect beach-style home. Silver, cream, beige, and sage are great with light gray wood flooring. These tones work well with a lighter gray-washed floor. They also give the look of shabby chic and vintage to an area.
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           Gray hardwood floors look sleek and modern or warm and rustic based on the wood's grade and the gray shade chosen. We usually mix four different colors to get the perfect gray shade for hardwood floors. The flooring contractor you hire is likely to be able to mix different colors to create the ideal shade of gray. Gray floors can be difficult to achieve, so be sure you select a trustworthy hardwood flooring expert.
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           Are you able to pull off grey hardwood floors in your house? It is always better to consider furniture and decor when deciding on grey flooring. Our opinion is that dark traditional wooden furniture and decor don't blend well with grey. Grey floors tend to be more of a transitional look and may look odd when combined with traditionally designed furniture. The heavy orange or yellowish-looking trims or woodwork on doors or windows doesn't look great with grey hardwood flooring. If you're looking to change your flooring color, it is important to ensure that your trim colors are compatible with the latest style. The orange-brown color of the molding looks more dated when combined with wood floors that are gray.
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      <pubDate>Sun, 02 Oct 2022 10:14:50 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/to-gray-or-not-to-gray-gray-hardwood-floors-a-trend-or-a-tradition</guid>
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      <title>Hardwood Flooring Acclimation: What Is It And How Long Does It Take?</title>
      <link>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/hardwood-flooring-acclimation-what-is-it-and-how-long-does-it-take</link>
      <description>Acclimatization is defined as the process or outcome of becoming used to a new condition or to a new climate.</description>
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           Hardwood Flooring Acclimation: What Is It And How Long Does It Take?
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           Acclimatization is defined as the process or outcome of becoming used to a new condition or to a new climate.
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           If we are considering an installation of new flooring made of wood, it is important to prepare enough acclimation time for the flooring. What is the reason we do this?
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           Wood is HYGROSCOPIC. A hygroscopic substance is one that is capable of attracting water from its surroundings via absorption or adsorption. This results in the adsorbing material becoming physically altered. If water vapor is taken in, water molecules are transferred by the molecules in the substance and changes like an increase in volume could occur.
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           So, what are the main tips for your hardwood flooring?
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           If hygroscopic substances attract and hold water molecules from their surrounding environment, they are physically altered.
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           Have you been physically changed? Consider how some of your doors are "stuck" in the summertime in humid conditions. The dimensions of your door have actually increased due to having a higher moisture level. The increase in moisture content of the wood has caused it to expand. This expansion has led to a noticeable increase in the size of the door. It has grown.
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           A similar thing happens to the individual boards on the flooring of your hardwood. In the less humid winter air, the moisture content of the wood will diminish. The wood's cells will shrink, which results in the wood shrinking in size. The same door that is stuck just a bit during summer can be opened in winter.
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           What do all these have in common for adaptation?
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           If you bring wood flooring from an industrial climate-controlled mill into an unoccupied home in August, with no functioning climate control and the wood flooring remains there for a period of time, it's going to begin to swell to accommodate the increased moisture content. The boards will expand and swell to their maximum capacity as well as their highest dimensions. They are then put in this configuration. What is going to happen after the air conditioning turns up and humidity in the home is drastically reduced? The boards will start losing their moisture content and shrink or contract. There will be gaps (spaces between the floorboards) that will never disappear.
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           What do we suggest to help you get acclimated properly? First, the environment in the home needs to be secluded and stable. The climate controls should be in place and operational for a minimum of five days before the wood flooring is installed. If climate controls aren't installed, waiting could delay a timeline for construction; temporary heating or AC units are able to be utilized in certain situations to simulate the typical conditions in a dwelling, but we'd rather avoid this scenario if it is feasible.
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           The climate controls should be in and operating during acclimation and during the installation and even after the flooring is put in. Be aware that when you make the decision to install wood flooring in your home, you're making the decision to keep the environment stable within your home!
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      <pubDate>Wed, 07 Sep 2022 06:45:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/hardwood-flooring-acclimation-what-is-it-and-how-long-does-it-take</guid>
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      <title>Eek! My Hardwood Floor Has Gaps!</title>
      <link>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/eek-my-hardwood-floor-has-gaps</link>
      <description>Why are floors beautiful when they're newly laid, and then a split between the boards happens later on? What is the reason that old wood floors that looked great in the summer split and creak during winter?</description>
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           Eek! My Hardwood Floor Has Gaps!
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           Why are floors beautiful when they're newly laid, and then a split between the boards happens later on? What is the reason that old wood floors that looked great in the summer split and creak during winter?
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           Let's return to the wood flooring's source: the tree. It was once a tree, wasn't it? The wood flooring is an organic material which means it is a natural product. The trees absorb moisture and water into the trunk through the roots. Trees can endure long periods of low humidity; however, the cells in the wood will become drier and shrink due to this less water content.
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           You can be sure of this: If you chop the tree into wood flooring boards, they're still wood and still organic and able to absorb and hold in moisture. That's precisely the function they perform. Wood floors "move," meaning expand and contract throughout their lifespan.
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           When wood absorbs water, it expands or swells in size, and when it is dehydrated, it shrinks or shrinks. Wood flooring reacts to surroundings immediately. It absorbs humidity from the air within your home or sheds it when the Relative Humidity (RH) of the house falls. What is Relative Humidity? Relative humidity measures the quantity of water vapor in the air. It is expressed in percentages of the maximal amount of water that the air is able to hold when it's at the same temperature.
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           Warmer air has more water than colder air, which is why the days that are hot are generally more humid than colder days. In winter, the air outside is usually dry and cold, while the RH inside houses decreases. This is the reason we receive more calls regarding this issue during this time of the year. Not only are RH swings impact the wood floors, but they may also be detrimental to trim and cabinetry.
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           The cold winter months demand additional heating. Dry air is pushed into the air. The moisture is then removed not just from the surroundings but also from the pores or cells in the wood. Contraction takes place. Ventilation plays a significant part in this drying process that occurs during winter. If you introduce cold winter air inside a home and then allow it to warm up in the house, the RH of that air decreases drastically. The older, leaky houses with old windows pose an issue in maintaining the RH within the house at the same level. Most people don't know what dry air inside their homes gets during winter!
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           We now know the causes of wood flooring splitting (shrink); how can we stop this from happening? If you are able to maintain an even relative humidity and temperature within your home, you'll have less movement on the floor.
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           If you change the conditions, the dimensions will also change. Measurements refer to the exact dimensions (measurements) for the specific boards. The ability to maintain constant temperatures in the house is crucial to the long-term success of a wood floor. If you have hardwood floors in the home, and you turn off your heating completely while you head off to your winter residence, you will return to a home full of huge gaps and perhaps broken and cracked boards! However, if you travel for a lengthy summer vacation and shut off all cooling in your home when you're away, it is likely that you'll be returned to a wet or swollen floor.
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      <pubDate>Wed, 31 Aug 2022 06:29:08 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/eek-my-hardwood-floor-has-gaps</guid>
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      <title>How to Install Thin Brick Flooring</title>
      <link>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/how-to-install-thin-brick-flooring</link>
      <description>Brick flooring is a durable and beautiful option for your home. Brick floors are often used in bathrooms, sunrooms, and laundry rooms. Brick floors should be made from real bricks that have been fired in clay. This will ensure durability over time and prevent cracking and chipping like fake brick tiles.</description>
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           How to Install Thin Brick Flooring
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           Brick flooring is a durable and beautiful option for your home. Brick floors are often used in bathrooms, sunrooms, and laundry rooms. Brick floors should be made from real bricks that have been fired in clay. This will ensure durability over time and prevent cracking and chipping like fake brick tiles.
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           Once you've chosen your bricks and location, it is simple and straightforward to install them. These are the steps to installing your thin brick floor.
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           Step 1
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           A thin brick floor can be installed over a cement base or on top of an already installed cement board. Install your thin bricks on top of vinyl, tiles, or other floor surfaces. You will first need to remove any existing tile or flooring.
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           Clean your floor surface thoroughly. Clean the floor of dirt and dust.
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           Optional: If you're working with sealed cement or another non-porous surface, apply a bonding primer.
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           Step 2
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           For your flooring project, use a modified thin-set adhesive. Follow the directions on the package to mix your adhesive. Use a notched trowel to apply the adhesive using the flat side. Next, score and level the adhesive with your notched side. Start by removing a small section from the far end of the room. This will allow you to work backward without needing to step on bricks.
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           Step 3
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           Lay your thin bricks on the adhesive, and then press them down gently. To achieve an even spacing between bricks, if you are using loose bricks, place 3/8-inch tiles spacers between them.
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           Continue the process by spreading the adhesive and scoring it with your notched trowel. Finally, place your bricks on the floor until you are satisfied.
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           Pro tip: Use your trowel to remove any adhesive from the floor if you have to stop and take a break. It can be difficult to remove access adhesive that has dried on the floor.
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           Step 4
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           To cut the bricks, use an angle grinder or wet tile saw with a diamond blade attachment. You can place your cut bricks in the order you see fit, so you don't have a need to return and step on it after it has dried.
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           Step 5
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           Before grouting, allow your brick floor to dry for at least 24 hours. You can use Type S mortar or sanded grout to finish your project. Apply the grout using a trowel on top of bricks. Next, smoothen the grout with a large tile flopper to cover all joints.
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           The float will remove excess grout. After the grout has set, wait around ten minutes before you use a sponge to clean up the grout. To remove grout from brick faces, use a sponge with a bucket of water. As much grout as possible should be removed from brick faces as soon as it is still wet. It is much more difficult to remove grout once it has dried.
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      <pubDate>Sat, 02 Jul 2022 15:15:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/how-to-install-thin-brick-flooring</guid>
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      <title>Oil-Based vs. Water-Based Hardwood Floor Finishes</title>
      <link>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/oil-based-vs-water-based-hardwood-floor-finishes</link>
      <description>There are many hardwood floor finishes available today. Oil-based and water-based finishes are the two most popular. Both oil- and water-based finishes offer their benefits.</description>
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           Oil-Based vs. Water-Based Hardwood Floor Finishes
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           There are many hardwood floor finishes available today. Oil-based and water-based finishes are the two most popular. Both oil- and water-based finishes offer their benefits.
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           OIL-BASED FINISH
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           Oil-based flooring finishes are loved by many people for their golden patina or amber color. This golden hue is often referred to as traditional or classic. This is what hardwood floors should look like. The oil-based finish will become darker over time and bolder in color.
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           Oil-based finishes require fewer coats than those that are water-based. Oil-based finishes require a longer drying time. Oil-based finishes require three to four coats. However, oil-based finishes can take several hours to dry between coats.
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           Oil-based flooring finishes have a stronger odor than water-based finishes due to how they are made.
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           Although each finish is durable, contractors are more likely to believe that oil-based finishes last longer than water-based.
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           Oil-based floor finish is preferred by many hardwood flooring installers because they are more familiar with them. Oil-based floor finishes are easier to apply. Hardwood floor installers love the combination of ease of use and familiarity.
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           WATER-BASED FINISH
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           Clear drying is possible for most water-based finishes. This is great for wood that has a natural color. This is also great for lighter woods such as maple. A hardwood floor that has been stained is another possibility. Clear, water-based finishes will not cause any conflicts between the stain and the finish colors.
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           Water-based floor finishes are more popular than those made from oil. They have lower VOCs than their oil-based counterparts. This serves two purposes. It is also better for the environment if there are fewer VOCs.
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           Water-based finishes have a lower solid content, so they produce a thinner film. To achieve the recommended thickness of the film, multiple coats will be required. On a floor, you will typically need four to five coats. The thin finish allows for faster drying times. A skilled hardwood floor installer can apply four coats to a single floor in one day. To ensure the best cure, we recommend applying only two coats per day.
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           Water-based floor finishes should be monitored for the presence of catalysts. The catalyst is often used to harden the finish. The catalyst should be correctly mixed in the finish to ensure that it performs properly.
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      <pubDate>Sat, 25 Jun 2022 14:48:36 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/oil-based-vs-water-based-hardwood-floor-finishes</guid>
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      <title>Selecting the best flooring for your home</title>
      <link>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/selecting-the-best-flooring-for-your-home</link>
      <description>The answer can be as different as the options available to pick from, so we'll break down the different kinds, including pros and cons, as well as our own experience and opinions about each.</description>
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           Selecting the best flooring for your home
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           The answer can be as different as the options available to pick from, so we'll break down the different kinds, including pros and cons, as well as our own experience and opinions about each.
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           Solid Wood
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           Everything being considered, we're not sure you could beat the appearance of genuine hardwood. It's timeless and welcoming; it can be a great way to warm up any room and be a perfect match for any decor. It will last for a long time and is able to be refinished and over. If you have an unending budget and without maintenance issues to worry about, you can go for hardwood every day.
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           However, in actual life, there are a few negatives. It's suitable for damp areas such as bathrooms, kitchens, and laundry rooms. The wood warps and buckles when humidity is high, and if you speak to the majority of homeowners in the area who chose to put them in any way, they'll regret it after a few months.
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           Engineered Wood
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           Engineered wood is just an actual wood layer over a composite. It's the ideal combination of both! Some used it in their homes, and they would usually go with the option over real wood.
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           There's a wide variety of styles, species, and prices to pick from. They are installed in a variety of ways: floating and glue-down or nail down. The cost varies, but generally, they're cheaper than solid wood, and there are some very nice alternatives within the range of $5 to $8 per square foot (or lower).
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           Most people aren't in a position to recognize that it's not wood (or even care about it, actually). Because the top layer is made of real wood, you'll be able to polish it at least every couple of years so that they last for a long time. You can keep using engineered wood for homes where appearance and quality are important the most.
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           Tile
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           In terms of design, tiles certainly offer the greatest variety of choices. There are always different materials, patterns, sizes, and shapes to try, and it offers the greatest creative freedom. Tiles can be the star of the show and are the ideal option if you're looking to create an eye-catching center area.
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           Installation is more complex than other types of flooring once you consider all the additional materials required (cement boards, thinset grout, saw, and tools), and the cost of labor adds quickly if you contract out. Suddenly, that low-cost tile you bought isn't cheap in the end. There are a few scenarios where it looks beautiful, elegant, warm, and classic (like brick pavers or traditional French limestone); however, it can create a room that appears like it's cold and chilly, particularly in rooms and living areas.
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           Luxury vinyl tile/planks
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           LVT, also known as LVP, is a buzzword of real estate developers and home flippers today. They are thin pieces of flexible vinyl coated with printed photographs which can be fixed or glued down. It is available at as little as $1/sf. And to untrained eyes (or in photos), it may appear like real wood.
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           Peel and stick vinyl has been in use since the beginning of time, however, the addition of this brand new "luxury" variety has changed the rules and offered various alternatives for those looking for the most bang for a budget solution. It's a DIY easy installation, too.
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      <pubDate>Sat, 04 Jun 2022 11:45:00 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/selecting-the-best-flooring-for-your-home</guid>
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      <title>Why You Should Choose Penetrating Oils for Your Hardwood Finish</title>
      <link>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/why-you-should-choose-penetrating-oils-for-your-hardwood-finish</link>
      <description>Selecting the best flooring finish could be a difficult and time-consuming job. It's not just about wanting it to look beautiful; you also need to ensure you're choosing the most durable finish that offers durable protection. Most importantly, you want to be sure that the products you're employing are safe for you and your family members.</description>
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           Why You Should Choose Penetrating Oils for Your Hardwood Finish
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           Selecting the best flooring finish could be a difficult and time-consuming job. It's not just about wanting it to look beautiful; you also need to ensure you're choosing the most durable finish that offers durable protection. Most importantly, you want to be sure that the products you're employing are safe for you and your family members.
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           For a long time, polyurethane has been considered to be the best finish for hardwood flooring. But, more and more are opting for penetrating oils as an alternative option. What's the difference?
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            ﻿
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           Penetrating oils versus Polyurethane
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           In simple terms, the most significant distinction between polyurethane and penetrating oils lies in the appearance it leaves on floors made of hardwood. The majority of polyurethane sits on top of a wooden floor to create a glossy finish. Penetrating oils, however, are just as they sound: they penetrate the wood and create an organic finish. However, instead of just drying as other finishes, they harden up to provide a more durable surface.
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           Advantages of Penetrating Oils
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           Apart from making your floor stronger, there are many additional advantages to using oils that penetrate your hardwood floors over a polyurethane finish.
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           Durability
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           Because penetrating oils become hard on the wood floors, they are better protected by this type of finish. The wear and tear of everyday life, such as dents and scratches, aren't visible more easily than they would on floors with a polyurethane coating.
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           Easy to apply and maintain
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           The use and maintenance of penetrating oils are generally much simpler than polyurethane. Why? Penetrating oils create a more natural-looking finish, which means there's less worry about streaks feathering, streaking, or lap lines--they're more difficult to avoid when using polyurethane.
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           In terms of maintenance, hardwood floors that have penetrating oil are not required to be replaced. All you need to do is wash them regularly with soapy water and replace the oil when needed. Polyurethane finishes, however, usually require an entire recoating or refinishing as they're less durable and lose shine with time.
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           Environmentally friendly and safe
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           Plant-based products (penetrating oils comprised) are environmentally responsible, non-polluting, and sustainable while being long-lasting. Polyurethane is a potentially hazardous substance when exposed for a long time, as well as being linked with side consequences such as respiratory irritation, asthma, or skin irritations.
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           Choose the Best Penetrating Oils for Your Hardwood Floors
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           Your home deserves top-quality hardwood floors. Your hardwood floors require the highest quality oil that penetrates the floor. With us, it is possible to oil clean, re-oil, keep, and safeguard wood floors over many years to come. And you'll have peace of mind knowing that they're safe and durable.
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           Are you ready to begin? Follow our guide for deciding the most effective penetrating oil for your wood finishing project, or reach us for further assistance and guidance.
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      <pubDate>Sat, 28 May 2022 11:15:09 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/why-you-should-choose-penetrating-oils-for-your-hardwood-finish</guid>
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      <title>How to choose the right finish for polished concrete floors</title>
      <link>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/how-to-choose-the-right-finish-for-polished-concrete-floors</link>
      <description>Concrete is not limited to a dull, grey finish. This misconception can be misunderstood by some. Concrete can be painted in many different colors and finishes so that you can create the perfect look for your home.</description>
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           How to choose the right finish for polished concrete floors
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           Concrete is not limited to a dull, grey finish. This misconception can be misunderstood by some. Concrete can be painted in many different colors and finishes so that you can create the perfect look for your home.
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           It takes careful planning to achieve the perfect look for polished concrete floors.
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           This guide will help you select the right color, aggregate exposure (how much sand and small rocks are visible beneath the concrete surface), and finish for polished concrete floors in your home or business.
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           Selecting the right amount of aggregate exposure to polish concrete floors
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           You will need to decide how much aggregate you want to expose before concrete can be poured. This is the amount of stone visible below the concrete surface. The concrete surface can be ground to a different depth, which will affect the aggregate exposure. The exposure of aggregates can range from minimal to full-stone to nil.
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           Because it is easier to achieve, full exposure finishes can be more accommodating than minimal and nil exposures. You can achieve a stunning floor at any level of exposure with careful planning, quality concrete installation, and the right mix. It is vital to hire a professional concrete installer. You will get the best results using the most effective methods, tools, and practices.
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           Nil exposure finish
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           You can achieve a nil exposure finish by lightly grinding the concrete surface (minimum 3 mm). This allows concrete to have very few or no stones on its surface.
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           It is not easy to get a nil exposure result because the concrete must be poured flat. It is not easy to get a good-looking nil exposure floor. However, it is possible to work with a concrete expert who pours and polishes concrete.
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           Finish with minimal exposure
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           A light grind (grinding the surface 2 to 5 mm) can be used to minimize exposure. This will expose small amounts of stone. Because of its uneven nature, this is sometimes called a "salt and pepper" look. Some areas may not be exposed, while others may receive heavy exposure.
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           Minimal exposure is more economical than full exposure. However, it still achieves an industrial look.
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           Full exposure
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           Full exposure can be achieved by grinding the surface to a fine powder (grinding less than 5 mm). Full exposure allows you to see all stones on the surface.
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           For its unique look, full exposure is very popular in homes, restaurants, and retail shops. However, it is more labor-intensive as it requires heavy grinding.
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      <pubDate>Sat, 07 May 2022 14:00:03 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/how-to-choose-the-right-finish-for-polished-concrete-floors</guid>
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      <title>Decorative Wood Patterns</title>
      <link>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/decorative-wood-patterns</link>
      <description>If you are looking to enhance the rustic look of your wide plank hardwood floors with a unique flooring pattern, then consider going beyond the traditional straight lay. Parquet flooring adds visual interest to any space and gives it Old World charm.</description>
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           Decorative Wood Patterns
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           If you are looking to enhance the rustic look of your wide plank hardwood floors with a unique flooring pattern, then consider going beyond the traditional straight lay. Parquet flooring adds visual interest to any space and gives it Old World charm. The most popular designs are Chevron, Herringbone, Basket weave, and Versailles. Hardwood patterns are timeless classics that add elegance and sophistication to the look.
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           CHEVRON
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           This pattern is a classic design that dates back to Roman architecture. The chevron planks are arranged in perfect points, akin to a long string of arrows. It is a common feature in Europe where the chevron pattern has been used to define design elements.
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           HERRINGBONE
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           The Herringbone hardwood pattern is made up of planks with a slightly staggered appearance. The rectangularly shaped planks of the hardwood pattern have a distinct V-shaped design. The break at reversal makes this pattern different from a regular chevron. It resembles a broken zigzag. This elegant zigzag design will raise the level of a room. This pattern is known as herringbone because it looks like the skeleton of a herring fish.
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           BASKET WEAVE
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           Basket weave hardwood floors add dimension to rooms by giving them a woven look. Planks fit under and over each other. This intricate pattern creates depth and visual interest.
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           VERSAILLES
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           Inspired by the Chateau of Versailles in France, the Versailles pattern is a hardwood flooring design that includes a border with interlaced diagonals. It was a design element of prestige that dated back to Louis XIV and was prominently displayed in the reception halls at castles and mansions. This hardwood pattern adds elegance to any design.
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           Wood patterns are available in many different designs. They don't need to be the same as standard layouts. This allows you to create a hardwood floor that is completely unique.
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      <pubDate>Sat, 30 Apr 2022 13:38:11 GMT</pubDate>
      <guid>https://www.vancouverhardwoodfloorrefinishing.com/decorative-wood-patterns</guid>
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